2 STROKE ENGINE KIT INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS PAGE 1
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This happens a lot when you have a new sprocket and chain. The chrome adds some thickness and sharp edge that is prone to grab the chain and not allow it to seat onto the sprocket..So..Simply hit each tooth on both sides to knock the chrome off and to taper it a little...This will be a big time payoff.. Grind only a little off on the tip of each tooth both sides..
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Place the cut rag joint sprocket
binder that you have just cut on
the inside of the hub as shown.
There are two rear sprocket rag
joint binders. Cut one of them and
only one. Cut only between the
drilled holes.
STEP 1
STEP 2
Place the other rag joint sprocket
binder on the outside of the hub.
Here is a Big TIP: Take the rear
sprocket and hit the ends of each
tooth both sides with a grinding
wheel to knock the chrome off of
the tip and to taper it a little. This
aids in the breaking in process for
the chain and the rear sprocket. If
you do not do this, then, you may
have a chain that will want to ride
high or get caught on the edge of
the sprocket teeth and then come
off the sprocket.
STEP 3
STEP 4
Thread the nine bolts and use the
half moon backing plates, tighten
all nine bolts moving across in a
star fashion and a little at a time
to allow for an even pull down.
Once sprocket is tight using the
flat washers and lock washers
and locking nuts provided, Spin
wheel and check sprocket for
True. Deviation can be no more
than 1.5mm both orbital and x
Axis or side to side. Typically any
side to side excess deviation can
be corrected by using a sharpie
and spinning wheel and then
tightening the sprocket where
needed in order to get correct
alignment. Make sure bolts are
tight.
STEP 4 COMPLETED
Here is how it looks when
completed. Nice, tight, and true.
STEP 5
Mount the engine into frame. This
is the front motor mount. Since I
am mounting it in a mountain bike
frame which has a slightly larger
down tube, I need to use the 3
hole adapter spacer. This spacer
normally would require the
drilling of a hole in the frame to
bolt the center of the spacer to. I
prefer the method shown, which
is to pull the studs and replace
them with longer ones that you
can get at the local hardware
store for a buck or two or order
them from the parts page. Then,
you can use the steel motor
mount clamp that came with the
kit and not have to drill a hole in
your frame. Then....Cut the
excess off. Makes for a sweet
mount for sure!!!!!